Ali Pasha Springs
First things first: the Ali Pasha Springs in its current form are not being sold as a tourist destination. There is no entrance fee, no opening hours, no benches, no lights, no pathway around – just an abandoned water mill engulfed by the natural wonder of the twenty-five or so wellsprings that never cease to amaze.
The Ali Pasha Springs are named after a 19th-century governor from Gusinje and sit at an altitude of more than 900 meters to the foot of the Accursed Mountains in northeast Montenegro. Extending over a length of 300 square meters and pumping out between three and nine cubic meters of groundwater per second, this karst spring is the largest in Montenegro and well worth a visit.
The water is ice-cold year-round and many locals come here – alongside cows and sheep – to refresh themselves or just marvel at this natural phenomenon. The area surrounding Ali Pasha Springs is a popular picnic and barbeque spot, and unfortunately, plenty of bottles and plastic waste get regularly left behind by thoughtless visitors. The springs are not part of the Prokletije National Park.
The springs are located just 1,5 kilometers away from Gusinje and have always played an important role in the daily life of villagers and passers-by who rely on the basin primarily for freshwater and secondly socialization. During Ottoman times, countless caravans passed here on their way from Istanbul toward the Dalmatian coast.
According to legend, gold coins and jewelry have been buried on the site of the Ali Pasha Springs, under the roots of a walnut tree that used to stand there. The springs know the exact location but won’t reveal it, instead, they whispered to everyone who wanted to hear that tying the knot here would be lucky. While there is no definitive answer to whether having someone marry at the Ali Pasha Springs is good luck, many believe that it is.
The 20th century witnessed many hardships for the local population that started to relocate to faraway countries, uprooting their simple village life for presumably greener pastures. Haunted by simple childhood memories that remind them of their roots and families, thousands of expatriates come together at the Ali Pasha Springs on August 2nd for the much-awaited annual Festival of the Diaspora.
They represent the first, second, and even third generations of emigres who even though they were born or have lived for many years abroad, have not lost their love of Gusinje homelands. The atmosphere is cheerful then and young and old exchange experiences and stories about their diasporic life with the locals who still live here, dance and sing, and potentially even look for a life partner; the Ali Pasha Springs are said to have facilitated many marriages.
Restaurants near the Ali Pasha Springs
The family-run Restaurant Krojet is close to the parking lot serves traditional, homemade dishes like trout in kajmak and sheep’s cheese, and has outside seating overlooking the Ali Pasha Springs. The restaurant is well-appointed in rustic style and filled with wooden furniture, vintage, and antique finds.
There are several casual eateries dotted around the main street in Gusinje, serving simple regional dishes and international comfort food. Pizzeria Torino is a no-frills Italian restaurant specializing in pasta and especially pizza. One of the most authentic venues is Restaurant Napolis, which focuses its efforts on slow-cooked meats and emblematic Montenegrin dishes.
Accommodation
There are a couple of simple 3-star hotels and vacation rentals within the center of Gusinje. One of the best accommodations close by is the Eko Katun ROSI – Old Tower located between the Ali Pasha Springs and Vusanje. In Vusanje itself, there are dozens of bed and breakfasts and alpine-style lodges.
Ethno House Bektesevic is another rural retreat located within a ten-minute drive of the springs. It provides you with accommodation in charming bungalows set in a beautiful, peaceful location. Children will appreciate the outdoor amenities and toys.
Surrounding Areas
Six kilometers south of the Ali Pasha Springs, in the Ropajana Valley, you’ll find another well-known karst spring, Oko Skakavice, which forms the Skakavica River. This 2,500-meter-long beauty can be best observed when it merges with the Grlja River at the canyon with the same name. The Vruja River, conversely, originates from the Ali Pasha Springs, and both rivers also merge there before feeding into Lake Plav.
Many visitors stop at the Ali Pasha Springs on their way to the Grebaje Valley which is just a 20-minute drive from there and a must-visit during your trip to this region of Montenegro. Gusinje and the springs are now easier accessible via the Podgorica – Gusinje road that goes via Albania and shortened the distance to just 65 kilometers.
The area around Ali Pasha Springs is a great base to access the striking peaks of the Accursed Mountains and the Prokletije National Park with its beautiful springs, waterfalls, and green meadows. The most popular trails starting in the Grebaje Valley are the hikes to Volusnica and Suplja Vrata (‘Kissing Cats’).
The Ropojana Valley offers trailheads to the Rosni Peak (2,524 m) and Zla Kolata (2,534 m), Montenegro’s highest summit. The Peak of the Balkans Trail also meanders through this picturesque valley on its way towards Theth. You can also go to the Great Valley of Lakes (Buni Jezerces) and Maja Jezerce (2,694 m) – both located in Albania – from it.
Lake Plav is the largest glacial lake in Montenegro and can be reached within twenty minutes by car from the Ali Pasha Springs. The lake and the Lim River that feeds out of it are full of trout and a paradise for flyfishers. Hiring a kayak or paddle boat at the lake is another popular activity besides hiking up to other picturesque lakes and peaks.