Cetinje

Visiting Cetinje, Montenegro’s Old Royal Capital is not on everyone’s itinerary but we think it should be. Here is why.

Cetinje is the cultural capital of Montenegro and here you’ll also find the Blue Palace which was the former residence of the Crown Prince Danilo and still serves as the official residence of Montenegro’s president. Hard to believe but this is the place where other statesmen and persons of interest are welcomed by the Montenegrin State.

Of all Montenegrin towns, it is in Cetinje where visitors can experience Montenegro’s true character and soul. Cetinje which lies 650 meters above sea level has never been conquered by the Ottomans or Venetians and has always been the bedrock of Montenegrin civilization.

Cetinje is a small town of just 15,000 inhabitants and has served as the capital city of Montenegro from 1878 (Montenegro’s independence) to 1914. It was also the city with the first printing house in the entire region – the operation started in 1493.

History

Cetinje’s history dates back to the 15th century when the then-ruler of Montenegro Ivan Crnojevic moved his people from the shores of the Skadar Lake to the more secluded area around Cetinje.

The development of the former Royal Capital was slow at first due to the ever-present threat of Turkish occupation. But Cetinje finally started growing from a tiny Montenegrin village into a small urban center at the end of the 17th century when the Petrovic Dynasty came to power.

Cetinje is blessed with many fine examples of historic embassies, museums, and religious architecture, especially the historical center. In the period between the World Wars, Montenegro was integrated into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and Cetinje still served as the administrative regional capital.

From 1945 onwards, Podgorica (then: Titograd) was proclaimed the new capital of the Socialist Republic of Montenegro. Thereupon, Cetinje slowly started to lose its importance under the rule of Tito’s Yugoslavia.

Today, Cetinje is still the bastion of Montenegrin identity and culture. It is home to dozens of local artists and students who come here to study at the renowned Faculty of Fine Arts.

Things to do in Cetinje

The continental-style historical town is compact and you can transverse from one end of town to the other in just a few minutes. You will find quaint cafes, bars, and genuine Montenegrin souvenir shops along the way. You can easily spend a couple of days here if you want to take it slowly – it’s a relaxed place to be and full of history.

Cetinje Monastery

One of the oldest buildings in town is the Cetinje Monastery which originates in the 15th century but took its current form in the 18th century. The founder of Cetinje, Ivan Crnojevic, got inspired by an Italian Basilica in the city of Ancona and decided to build a similar one in Cetinje.

The monastery today is administered by the Serbian Orthodox Church and is acclaimed for housing the relics of Saint Peter of Cetinje and the right hand of Saint John the Baptist. It is located close to the National Museum of Montenegro. 

In the church’s interior, you can admire beautiful icons and frescoes in vivid colors. The altar is adorned with golden icons and crosses – one of the country’s most alluring. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take pictures from inside.

Castle Church

The church is dedicated to the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary and belongs to the Cetinje Monastery complex. It was built by the Montenegrin king Nikola I in 1886 on the remains of a 15th-century monastery.

In front of the church, there are still columns and foundational walls of the previous construction almost giving the impression of ancient ruins.

The church is small but it is still worth visiting due to its amazing interior ornamentation. It is also one of the most important churches in Montenegro containing the remains of King Nikola, Queen Milena, and the princesses Xenia and Vera.

Eagle Hill Mausoleum

Having visited the Cetinje Monastery, you could make a quick detour to the  Mausoleum of Bishop Danilo. It’s only a 15-minute hike up from the monastery and having reached the top, you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of Cetinje and the surrounding area.

The mausoleum itself is small but beautifully designed with arches stretching above the stone tomb making up for a great photo motif. Make sure not to miss the old Summer Theatre (stone amphitheater) which lies at the foot of the hill.

Lovcen National Park

By car, you can drive up to the Lovcen National Park within half an hour. Mount Lovcen constitutes an important natural landmark for Montenegro’s folklore and traditions: it even traces the origin of its name back to the Black Mountains of the Lovcen massif.

The Lovcen National Park stretches over 62 square kilometers: it’s 1/6 the size of the more popular Durmitor National Park. Take precautions during winter time. Due to its elevation, there will likely be snow on the roads.

That does not mean that the Lovcen is not worth visiting; it’s just less dramatic. Njegos was a smart man and he chose the Lovcen over any other place in Montenegro to find eternal peace – his mausoleum is atop the Jezerski Vrh.

What’s special about the Lovcen is that it makes up the natural and climatic border between the Adriatic Sea and Montenegro’s mainland. It’s much fresher up here but not too cold. It’s the ideal climate for all outdoor activities and adventures. And the views of the Bay and shoreline below are simply breathtaking.

Tip: You can buy the annual National Parks of Montenegro ticket that buys you entrance to all five parks at a rate of 13,50€. 

The daily ticket costs 3,00€ per person per day.

Njegos Mausoleum

Geographically speaking, the Lovcen makes up the hinterlands of the coastal town of Kotor. And if you climb up to one of its peaks, for example to the Jezerski Vrh at 1,657 meters above sea level where the Njegos Mausoleum is located, you won’t regret it. The panoramic views are just incredible from here.

As George Bernhard Shaw poetically put it, you can see a sea of mountains. He did not exaggerate; it is probably the most scenic viewpoint in Montenegro. No wonder Prince-Bishop Njegos chose this exact spot as his burying site. To reach the mausoleum, you have to climb up 461 steps, part of which lead you through a tunnel.

Entrance Fee: 8€

National Museum of Montenegro

There are a handful of museums in Cetinje of which the National Museum of Montenegro is the most notable one. It is nested in the yellow building close to the monastery. It houses two museums – the history museum on the ground floor and the art museum on the first floor.

If you want to know more about the history of Montenegro, the proud and enthusiastic curators will let you know all the details for an entrance fee of just 5€. The art exhibition is worth a visit as well – it contains 3,000 pieces from local and many Yugoslav artists.

Tip: Buy the Cetinje Museum Ticket for 20€ which gives you access to all the museums in Cetinje and to the Njegos Mausoleum. There are all close to each other.

King Nicholas Museum

The red-colored King Nicholas Palace is now a museum and sits right at Cetinje’s main city square. It is an interesting museum dedicated to him with countless original artifacts, giving you a glimpse into the royal family’s daily life.

On display are 19th-century flags, clothes, dinnerware, and many personal artifacts used by the king and his closest. On the upper floors, you will find the family rooms, each telling his own intriguing story about the tumultuous past.

Ethnographic Museum

The ethnographic museum is right around the corner, also placed on Cetinje’s main town square. Come here if you are interested to explore some old and beautiful folklore costumes among a wide assortment of guns, weapons, and musical instruments.

Entrance Fee: 4€

Museum of Money

And finally, we need to point out the Museum of Money which is worth a visit if you are fascinated by coins and banknotes. Since Cetinje once was the old Royal Capital, it was also where the Central Bank and National Mint were located. Inside the museum, you can still see the ancient printing press which still works today.

The museum also gives plenty of information about the hyperinflationary period in Yugoslavia in the 1990s. This was one of the worst examples of monetary devaluation in recorded history – go if you are interested in economics and money. It’s located on the main promenade.

Lipa Cave

The Lipa cave is a must-see when visiting Cetinje. It is just 5 kilometers away from the city center. The cave is small but features beautiful and unique passages and stone formations. Fortunately, the tour guide is very knowledgeable and forthcoming.

Info: Pack a jacket – it’s cold and damp inside.

Tours Start at:  10 am, 11:30 am, 1 pm, 2:30 pm, and 4 pm 

The Lipa Cave is open to the public from April until November every year.

Pavlova Strana Viewpoint

Just 25 minutes away from the lovely town of Cetinje, there is one of the most breathtaking spots in the whole of Montenegro, especially if you visit in spring and summer. What you see in the picture below is the Pavlova Strana, the single best viewpoint to take pictures of the Skadar Lake.

The Crnojevica River is a stunningly beautiful river that feeds into Lake Skadar.

Take a trip to Karuc

Karuc is a tiny quaint hamlet on the shores of Lake Skadar and close to the Pavlova Strana Viewpoint. You can expect to find an authentic and beautiful Montenegrin fishing village with incredible lush scenery – it’s a real gem.

The former Montenegrin ruler Petar I Petrovic chose Karuc as his winter residence. Why? We cannot be completely sure but the amazing views must have supported his decision.

Cetinje Hotels

The eco-friendly 5-star Gradska Hotel is your best choice when visiting Cetinje. It is a small boutique hotel with attention to detail and located at the central town square between the Ethnographic and King Nichola’s Museum.

Just a few years ago, it was renovated, keeping many features of the old structure in the tract such as exposed wood beams. The rooms and suites are spacious, modern, and not expensive – great value for money.

The daily breakfast is served a la carte or continental in the Hotel Restaurant which is an amazing place to be – both inside and outdoors on its scenic terrace.

Room Prices: 90 – 130€ for the Double Room

Cetinje Restaurants

Luckily, Cetinje has a few excellent restaurants serving traditional Montenegrin cuisine and Montenegrin quality wine. The region around Cetinje is well-known for quality food products such as prosciutto and cheese. But some of the best-known Montenegrin wines are also grown here, especially the Vranac.

Gradska Restaurant

The Hotel Restaurant Gradska offers some of the most balanced food menus in this part of Montenegro. Don’t be appalled by its location within the Gradska Hotel: the interior is upscale and modern and the food quality is superb while the wine menu is extensive.

You can find a mix of delicacies on its well-thought-out menu, from local traditional Montenegrin foods to lighter options, and popular contemporary cuisine.

Opening Hours: 07:30  am – 11 pm

Restaurant Taverna

As the name already suggests, Taverna is a classic tavern-style restaurant offering a wide range of meat specialties, salads, pasta, and pizza in a rustic and cozy atmosphere. Their roast veal and lamb are excellent and not expensive. There are vegetarian options as well.

How to get there

Cetinje lies between the coastal town of Budva and Montenegro’s capital city of Podgorica. You can reach both within 30 or 40 minutes by car. There are rarely traffic jams in these sections. Expect to pay 25 – 30€ for a taxi.

The Cetinje bus station receives buses from the coastal towns and Podgorica on an hourly rhythm.