Durmitor National Park
The Durmitor massif is part of the Dinaric Alps and one of Montenegro’s World Heritage Sites. Bobotov Kuk is its highest peak measuring 2,523 meters and views from there are stunning.
The Durmitor mountain range is bounded by the Piva River Canyon to its west, the Tara River Canyon to its north, and the Komarnica River Canyon to its south. The tara canyon is the most frequently visited of the three.
The Durmitor National Park offers spectacular scenery that features an abundance of glacial lakes (locals call them mountain eyes), rivers, and dramatic mountain peaks. More than fifty peaks are higher than 2 kilometers.
Is Durmitor worth visiting?
Most people visit Durmitor National Park primarily for the Black Lake and the out-of-this-world canyons of the Tara, Draga, Susica, and Komarnica rivers. Most noteworthy is the Tara River Gorge, Europe’s largest and deepest canyon.
The ‘Grand Canyon’ is part of the Tara River rafting routes: the shorter one crosses a distance of 18 kilometers whereas the longer one stretches over almost 100 kilometers. By kayak or canoe, it is a fun way to explore the natural beauty of Eastern Europe’s deepest gorges.
Durmitor is one of the most popular active tourism destinations in Montenegro, known for magnificent hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, and kayaking junctures. Even below ground, you can find some interesting formations such as the ice stalactites and stalagmites of the “ice cave”.
The Durmitor Ring Road
The Durmitor Ring (Durmitorski Prsten) is an annular scenic road stretching 85 kilometers around the Durmitor National Park. A day trip is probably the best way to experience the spectacular views. A whole day is enough if you want to stop frequently along the way for picnics, short hikes, and taking pictures.
source: Open Streetmap
Make sure to drive slowly to not miss the cute mountain settlements along the way. Most probably you will encounter horses, sheep, or goats grazing wildflowers next to the paved road. That is if you are traveling in the period from spring to autumn.
Your best option to embark on this adventurous trip is to start from Zabljak, the only nearby town with plenty of lodging and eatery options. If you want to stop for breakfast or lunch, you can weigh up whether you prefer the ‘Krcma Nostalgija‘ or ‘Ukus Durmitora‘.
From Zabljak, you can navigate towards ‘Viewpoint Tara Canyon’, make a stop there to take pictures, and continue further in the direction of ‘Viewpoint Susica Canyon’. This mountain road zig-zags upwards through pine trees (European black pine) to later reveal great views of the canyons below.
The Durmitor National Park Montenegro is particularly known for its rich and diverse flora and fauna. If you are lucky, you might come across some wild animals such as the brown bear, the grey wolf, the European wild cat, the golden eagle, or the peregrine falcon.
Driving further, you might run into the occasional farmer or shepherd who traditionally uses the alpine meadows as summer pastures.
A little past the ‘Vidikovac Canyon Viewpoint’ emerges Lake Susic, a glacial lake that is dry during the hot summer months. If you are visiting in May or June, you can still see its beauty though.
Midway between start and finish is the sparsely-populated village ‘Trsa’. The village itself does not have much to offer besides a brutalist World War II memorial, a few guesthouses, and a restaurant that is better avoided. But the scenery is beautiful and you might consider stopping here for a picnic or coffee break.
Your next stop should be ‘Sedlo’ which translates to ‘saddle’ because of the form of the mountain peak. There you will find life-size picture frames with the mountain peak in the background – the perfect spot to take a picture or two and later have a picnic if you have not already done so. This is also a good starting point for a hike up the mountain trail to Bobotov Kuk.
Be warned: Bobotov Kuk is a challenging hike and you must not try if you are not sufficiently prepared. At such height, weather changes in a heartbeat.
From here the road descends slowly back to Zabljak. You will come across green meadows, grazing animals, and beautiful alpine flowers. Having mastered the full 85 kilometers either on two or 4 wheels, you will feel serotonin rushing through your brain, there are few places on Earth with such diverse nature in such a small geographical area.
If you can, drive counter-clockwise so that you don’t have to make sudden swerves all too often.
The Bobotov Kuk Trail
Even though there are four different options to hike to the highest peak of Montenegro (Bobotov Kuk measures 2523 meters), the best and most popular option is to take the Sedlo Pass Route. The Sedlo Pass comes in at a height of 1907 meters and is the highest road pass in Montenegro.
You can easily reach it by (rental) car from Zabljak and park your car somewhere along the road. The Bobotov Kuk Trail will take you 5-6 hours on average given that you are a reasonably fit hiker. If you want to squeeze in some breaks to enjoy the views, you should factor in 7-9 hours.
The trail starts moderately intricate for the first half hour or so, then flattens into an adorable trek across gently sloped hills and meadows. Along the way, you to the top will pass ‘Zeleni Vir Lake’ which does not desiccate during summer. Some locals even use it as a swim stop to refresh themselves during their ascend. The water surely will be on the colder side but it can’t get clearer than here.
Hike further from the lake for another hour to reach the ‘Velika Privija Pass’ where the path merges with the longer Zabljak trail. The final ascent stretches out for another 2 kilometers and is demanding, technical, and very steep with ample loose debris. You will have to grab the cliff edges for clambering up.
Due to the fine gravel, you’ll have to fight for traction, especially during bad weather conditions. Better don’t embark on the hike if it is raining or has been wet the past days. It will probably be too intense. The biggest mistake you can make is to underestimate the trail. There are sections where a wrong step could break your ankle.
Be advised that you won’t be able to fill up water on the trail. Bring plenty of water with you. You need appropriate outdoor gear as well: a good pair of hiking boots with enough profile, a rain jacket, and a layer of warm clothes. It can be windy and cold at the top.
You should have no trouble finding your way up to the top. Trails are marked with red paint circles and white points. The closer you get to the peak, the more challenging it gets. The pathway becomes narrow and there are sections where you might require ropes and cables to scramble up. At this height, it can feel overwhelming when the wind starts blowing. Just be mentally prepared for that.
Once you have reached the summit of Bobotov Kuk, you will realize that the effort was worth it. While the entire trail has beautiful views, the 360-degree panorama takes it to another level. You can even observe some mountain peaks in Albania and Bosnia from here.
If you have not parked your car at the Sedlo Pass, you can take an alternative hike down back to Zabljak that takes you past the Black Lake.
Info: You will be asked for the 3€ entrance fee at the end of the trailhead. Keep the receipt, park employees might ask to see it.
One Day in Durmitor National Park
You should ideally stay two nights at least to have enough time to enjoy everything Durmitor has to offer without being rushed; it is an ideal weekend getaway. If you only have one day, you should start early in the morning to avoid crowds.
If you don’t spend the night there, prepare for a departure before it gets dark because the roads are not always properly illuminated. And while the journey is incredibly scenic, the drive can be dangerous for inexperienced drivers. There are often no road barrier fences where they should be.
Option No 1: The Black Lake Trail
If you do not have much time and simply want to enjoy the breathtaking views of the Black Lake and surrounding mountains, the 5-kilometer hike around the lake might be your best bet.
It is generally a well-maintained trail, except on some winter days when parts of it can be covered deep in snow. In spring when it has been raining a lot, the trail might not be accessible either.
This is the easiest trail in the Durmitor region and is even appropriate for small children and dogs. You can master it in jeans and good trainers but sturdier shoe wear is still recommended. From the trail, you can venture out into the pine forests without getting lost.
During summer, there are lots of bugs and mosquitos, so make sure to bring anti-mosquito spray or gel and cover your arms and legs if you do not want to get bitten.
The trail is popular and it can get busy in the afternoon. If you want to evade crowds, come either early in the morning or late afternoon. You can also add another lake destination to your trek, the snake lake (Zmijinje Jezero) which adds about 2 hours to your trail. You can then go back down to the black lake trail and continue circling it.
The snake lake is of a mystical emerald color surrounded by coniferous forest. If you have food and beverages with you, you will also find great little areas for a delightful picnic.
Option 2: Durmitor Ring Road
If you do not want to hike but drive instead. You can easily master the 85-kilometer Durmitor Ring Road in a day. Please read the section above for more details about the ring road.
Option 3: Durmitor Ice Cave
The most demanding day activity in the Durmitor National Park is a hike to the Ice Cave. The cave is not very big but iced throughout the year, even in August. If you want to enter the cave, you need to climb down using a cable which is rather easy in summer but hard when the weather is rougher.
The best time of the year for this trail is summer (June to September). If you attempt it in the colder months, there is a high risk of the trail being blocked by snow. But even in warmer months, you need to prepare accordingly: bring a pair of shoes with good grip, ample water, a raincoat, and sunscreen.
The most important thing is to allow yourself sufficient time if you want to do the hike. If you are stopping along the way to take pictures and some rest, it can take you upwards of 8 hours. The last thing you want to do is be stuck on the trail when it gets dark.
How to get there?
From Black Lake follow the grey ‘Ledena Pecina’ trail until you reach a crossroad and turn right. Make sure you carry a GPS with trail information: very few splits are marked along the way. The first section is relatively easy but the trail gets increasingly challenging. Some sections require scrambling.
It will be worth the effort should you reach the cave that stands out with its amazing ice sculptures. Depending on the season and weather conditions, it can be difficult (or impossible) to go down into the cave without crampons.
Remember that these are just a few options. in total, there are more than 20 marked hiking trails in the Durmitor National Park. You can also get your adrenaline fix from white water rafting on the tara river or tandem paragliding.
Mountain biking is another option but there are not that many trails yet.
In the end, should you have just a few hours to experience Durmitor, a long hike might be too risky. Consider staying for one night at least. If you are lucky and get clear skies, take a moment to enjoy the magical night sky. In the end, there are few things more beautiful than watching the stars shining bright above the mountaintops.
Option 4: Tara River Rafting
Should you visit during the rafting season (April – October), you could also book a rafting tour. In springtime, a large volume of winter snow melts and finds its way to the tara river. During this period, the water speeds are high and it will take about 2,5 hours to make the trip.
In summer, the tara river slows down and it will take significantly longer to reach the destination of ‘Zugica Luka’. Along the way, you will pass by the ‘Ljutica River Mouth’ and the notorious ‘Tara Bridge’ (150 meters high), one of the most famous landmarks in Montenegro.
Info: The Ljutica River is Europe’s shortest but the most explosive. It measures just 130 meters.
The trip starts at 09:00 from Zabljak where you will be picked up by the tour operator and lasts until 15:00 when you will be returned to the same spot. A stop for lunch is usually included in the offer. This is probably the best option if you are traveling with a group of friends or family and want to have some fun.
Option 5: Tara Zip Line
Taking the Tara Zip Line is not an activity that fills a whole day. But if you are into adventurous pursuits, you should consider traveling to the Tara Bridge from where you can take the zip line that goes 100 km/h, gliding above the Tara River Valley. It’s a brief but intense adrenaline kick for sure.
Durmitor Day Trip from Kotor
The easiest way to reach Durmitor from the bay area is by rental car or your car. The trip takes a couple of hours (2 – 3 hours) and will take you along some incredible landscapes. First, you will climb up the road from Risan towards Niksic via Grahovo, and then pass the ‘Krnovo Wind Park’ to finally arrive in Zabljak.
Info: The weather is significantly colder around Durmitor. In July and August, you can expect around 15 – 18 degrees Celsius. Take a rain jacket and umbrella with you just in case.
You can also take the bus from Kotor but it makes not much sense if you plan to visit Durmitor on a day trip. You will be spending most of the day on a bus and you won’t have sufficient time to do anything besides maybe seeing the Black Lake and having lunch/dinner in the lakeside restaurant. If you have no other option than to come by bus, be sure to stay for at least one night.
Can you swim in Back Lake Durmitor?
You can swim in Black Lake during the warmer months of the year, from June to the beginning of September. Be aware that the lake is up to 49 meters deep and that the water temperature will be lower than in the Mediterranean.
On hot days, however, the water temperature is 21 or 22 degrees Celsius.
Durmitor National Park in Winter
In the winter season, the activities shift from hiking and kayaking to skiing and snowboarding. The national park then turns into a winter wonderland with massive snowfall and iced lakes.
The Black Lake is especially magical during this time of the year and is surrounded by snow-covered mountain peaks. You can also hike in winter but on some days some trails might not be accessible due to snowdrifts.
You can experience all four seasons in Durmitor – each one has a unique charm. Visit in October to experience the colorful autumn landscape or in spring when the snow melts (good for white water rafting) and trees and plants start to bud.
Durmitor National Park Visitor Center
The visitor center is located close to the entry of the National Park and it naturally should be the place where you should get all information about the area and its activities. But they are not of much help in there. Rather spend your time at one of the food and souvenir stands where local vendors will offer you their homemade honey, jam, knitwear, and other products.
The only positive thing which you can get from the center is a free Durmitor Ring map. They will try to sell you other maps – 3€ for the small one and 5€ for the bigger version. But the free map is just fine.
If you plan to hike, it is recommended that you also download an app like maps.me to assist you with navigation.
Durmitor National Park Entrance Fee
The entrance fee to the national park amounts to 3,00€ per person. The Association of National Parks in Montenegro has a special offer where visitors can get a yearly pass with access to all parks in Montenegro for 13,50€.
You can rent a boat on the Black Lake for 8€ and a Kayak for 4€ per hour.
Camping is allowed in designated places at a rate of 3€/day.
A daily fishing pass on the Tara River can be purchased for 20€/day.
Durmitor National Park Accommodation
If you primarily want to enjoy the nature around Durmitor National Park, stay for a couple of days, maybe do the Durmitur Ring Road Tour, and do some hiking, you should probably best stay in a hotel close to the center.
- Hotel SOA is a 4-star hotel
- Hotel Polar Star
The Hotel SOA is maybe the best Hotel overall in Zabljak. Its location is excellent right at the entrance to the national park and Black Lake. The staff is professional and friendly (which is rare to find in that region) and the hotel has a sauna which is so relaxing after an exhausting day outside.
The restaurant in general is better than you might expect. The breakfast options are rich and varied. Lunch and Dinner are even better. Try the ‘Lamb SOA’ or the local river trout.
You can also book a rafting or jeep tour with the hotel directly. Hotel SOA will organize the shuttle transfer and take care of all the details. If you are visiting in winter, the good news is that the ski center ‘Savin Kuk’ is not far away. The ski center is aging though and small but should be enough for your children and yourself to have some fun at least.
If you are visiting with children, maybe the Hotel Polar Star is the better choice. It is a 3-minute drive from the center and in general a great location for exploring the Durmitor region. The hotel features a playroom for children so that you can enjoy some time alone.
If you prefer simplicity and love to be in nature, you can also go for a bed & breakfast or campground with cabins. The Etno Selo ‘Smrcevo Brdo‘ is a family-run cabin resort with breathtaking views of Durmitor. The cabins are nicely furnished and offer sufficient comfort.
The breakfast is particularly lavish and will prepare you for an active day hiking the mountains. Some hiking trails are very close to this accommodation.
Check out ‘B&B Izvor‘ as an alternative.
If you plan to do some white water rafting, you might consider staying at one of the cabin resorts close to the points of departure. One good option is the ‘Waterfall Rafting Center‘. It’s 60 kilometers from Zabljak.