Grebaje Valley
In Northern Montenegro, close to Gusinje and Plav, the Grebaje Valley sits within the Prokletije National Park (there is a small entrance fee) and turns its back on resort hotels, fancy restaurants, and pure beach vacations. A rural mountain hideaway, reminiscent of the Swiss or Austrian Alps, where local traditions, healthy homegrown food, and scenic hikes take center stage.
Bordering Albania, the Grebaje Valley is wedged between the green meadows of Popadija and the Karanfili, a wild and intricate limestone massif characterized by three peaks and culminating at 2,490 m on Veliki Vrh. In the middle of this environment snuggles a sheltered area that has long remained inaccessible: the Grabeje Valley.
It makes the ideal encampment for exploring the striking peaks of the Accursed Mountains and its picturesque alpine villages and katuns (Montenegrin for shepherd’s summer settlements) still distinguished by self-sufficiency agriculture and pastoralism. Cut off from the rest of Montenegro, this extremely narrow valley is far from Budva’s ultra-touristy image.
The Accursed Mountains are the ideal playground for hikers, offering many well-marked trails that take you along incredible mountainscapes up to the fifty or so peaks above 2,000 meters. In true Karst manner, the almost vertical grey summits are exceptionally rugged, wild, and dramatic. The clouds give the feeling that the weather can change every moment.
For the best views of the picturesque Karanfili, choose the circuit Volusnica trail. Even if it is one of the easiest routes, it is also one of the most scenic, revealing bits and bits of the Karanfili along the way. Starting at the trailhead right after the entrance to the Prokletije National Park, the path first climbs up through dense beech forest before opening up onto a high valley where sheep and horses graze.
From there, take the trail counter-clockwise in the direction of the Talijanka Peak (2,056 meters) and the Popadija Ridge (2,057 meters); the entire trail gains 900 meters of elevation as it traverses slopes of wild blueberries and lush green highland meadows. The best views of the majestic Karanfili peaks and the iconic ‘Kissing Cats‘ (Suplja Vrata) can be had from Popadija Ridge.
Continue the trail towards Volusnica (1,879 meters) for a great view of the Ocnjak (2,185 meters), other peaks of the Karanfili, and the Grebaje Valley down below. The Prokletije’s wild appearance is reaffirmed by its stunning ice-cold mountain streams and waterfalls, one of which you will encounter on your way back.
The fertile Grebaje Valley has kept a singular identity throughout all these centuries. Its residents have been keeping livestock since the dawn of time but it is also the kingdom of distinct flora and bees that produce the sought-after raw mountain honey. With several summits over 2,500 meters high, guided mountain tours have increased in popularity over the last number of years.
Of course, you can also attempt the more challenging climbs to the peaks of the Karanfili and Ocnjak from here. The Karanfili massif has three peaks: Juzni Vrh (2,441 meters), Veliki Vrh (2,490 meters), and Sjeverni Vrh (2,460 meters) which is the most popular of the three and often combined with a descent to the Kissing Cats.
The trailhead starts at an altitude of 1,100 meters next to the small fountain called ‘Suljova Cesma’, 500 meters south of the Kantun Maja Karanfil. The fountain is the last water source you’ll come across and the area around it is also a popular campsite because all trails to the Karanfili start from here.
The ascent to Sjeverni Vrh is very steep, averaging 30%, and requires climbing up ropes at Krosnji Prolaz at 2,165 meters and scrambling your way up to the summit. The effort will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the wild and rugged beauty of the Accursed Mountains. From here, you can look down into the Grebaje Valley and see as far as Maja Jezerce in Albania – the highest peak of this mountain range.
Restaurants in the Valley
There are a handful of taverns and local eateries at the beginning of the Grebaja Valley, serving hearty and caloric Montenegrin and Albanian mountain cuisine, including priganice with kajmak and pita/burek with cheese for breakfast, kacamak, and cicvara, the latter being a yellowish porridge dish made of corn flour, clotted cream, and cheese.
Make sure to also try some freshly brewed Turkish coffee and a refreshing glass of homemade blueberry or raspberry juice – this is exactly what you need before a long and arduous hike. Restaurant Skala has an authentic vibe and pleasant seating area with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the stunning mountainscape.
Priganice
Priganice are a staple of the local Montenegrin cuisine. These dough balls or fritters are mostly consumed for breakfast and served with honey, jam, or cheese.
Accommodation
Forcefully wrested from the towering mountains of the Prokletije National Park, Grebaje Valley is punctuated with rudimentary mountain cabins and bungalows that constitute the majority of lodging here. The Deljanin Eco Village sits right at the entrance to the National Park and offers simple accommodation in wooden huts.
Just across the river, you’ll find a campsite in the woods with charming little wooden cabins offering cozy and affordable accommodation very close to the trailheads. Alternatively, the National Park also allows for backcountry camping at a daily fee of just 3,00€ per person.
Surrounding Areas
From the Grebaje Valley, it is just a short drive (15 minutes) to Gusinje and Ali Pasha Springs, where you can experience how groundwater bubbling to the surface forms the Vruja River. The Ropojana Valley is another picturesque vale and is the starting point for many scenic alpine trails, including the ascent to the Rosni Peak and Zla Kolata. The Peaks of the Balkans trail also passes here before continuing towards Theth, Albania.
The Ropojana Valley is further known for three impressive natural landmarks – Oko Skakavice, a beautiful karst spring feeding into the Grlja River, and the Kusije Waterfall which is well worth a visit in springtime when the river carries sufficient water. The Grlja Canyon is a beautiful spot with little waterfalls and just 2,5 kilometers away from Oko Skakvice.
The tiny rural Montenegrin town of Plav sits at the shores of Lake Plav and is considered one of the most beautiful areas of Montenegro by many and is just half an hour’s drive away. Once arrive, you can rent a kayak or paddle boat, or have a nice picnic on the shores of the lake amidst vast meadows and grazing animals.