Gusinje

Gusinje is a small mountain town located in the Plav-Gusinje plain at the foothills of the Accursed Mountains in South-Eastern Montenegro. It has just over 4,000 residents and is a wonderful destination for a summer holiday in the countryside, guaranteeing to help you hit the rest button.

Gusinje, which sits at the intersection of the rivers of Grncar and Vruja, is known for its pristine and ice-cold karst springs and boasts magnificent, panoramic views of the Accursed Mountains. Otherwise, known as the Albanian Alps or Prokletije in Montenegrin, this mountainous region straddling the border between Montenegro and Albania, can only be described as bewilderingly picturesque; offering incredible adventures to its visitors.

The tiny town center is a pleasure to explore and the surrounding mountains, namely Mount Visitor to the north and the Prokletije to the south, are perfect for hiking and cycling. Gusinje is a close-knit community that moves at a slower pace and benefits from a new road that has recently been built, shortening the travel time to just one hour from Podgorica.

Gusinje comes to life for its local festivities, including the annual summer festival. While not being an obvious tourist destination, it will provide visitors with a sense of authentic rural living. It’s a place to soak up the countryside atmosphere in a laid-back restaurant alongside the locals. Whether passing through by car or on a bike, Gusinje might be a worthy next stop.

History and Culture

Gusinje has Bronze-Age origins and at least three sites are cataloged in this area, the latest being a rare sundial found at the foot of Mount Volusnica within the Prokletije National Park. Previously, stone slabs with petroglyphs have been found not far from there, dating back to the Middle Bronze Age.

During the Ottoman Reign, the town was part of the Sanjak of Prizren and was an important stop on the Dubrovnik-Kotor-Shkoder-Pec caravan route. Most of the native population converted (forcefully or willingly to obtain more rights) to Islam by the 18th century. Today, Gusinje is almost entirely Muslim and its residents are either of Bosniak or Albanian ethnicity.

The dialect of Montenegrin spoken here is heavily influenced by the Albanian language. The Cekaj Mosque was built during the Ottoman’s golden era in 1687, while records show that the Vezir Mosque was erected in 1765 in the heart of Gusinje’s town center. Ali Pasha of Gusinje, a pro-Ottoman Governor, is the town’s most famous son.

He fought the newly established state of Montenegro at the Battle of Novsice and his presence is extremely marked on the town, with its main street and the Ali Pasha Springs named after him. After the fall of the Ottoman Empire after World War I, Montenegro (including Gusinje) became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, and it was during this period that Gusinje’s two churches were built.

Things to do in Gusinje

Nestled on the slopes of the Accursed Mountains of the Prokletije National Park, Gusinje is a popular base with hikers and cyclists. The rugged surrounding mountainscape boasts many scenic hiking trails, suitable for all skill levels. You can obtain detailed maps at the Gusinje Tourist Info Center or the National Park’s Visitor Center.

Among the most popular cycling routes are the Grncar circular trail which traverses the picturesque Grncar River Valley. With the imposing peaks of Mount Visitor to one side and the Prokletije to the other, you’ll experience first-hand what the Gusinje countryside has to offer. Other popular trails lead into Grebaje Valley, Ropojana Valley, and Lake Plav.

Gusinje itself is a small town with little more than a few bakeries, small grocery stores, cafes, and restaurants. The main town square adjacent to the Vizier’s Mosque is an ideal place to enjoy spending a summer evening unwinding and having a coffee or refreshing drink. The popular pastry shop ‘Sar’ holds an obvious appeal to people with a sweet tooth.

Exploring the narrow streets around the main town square will increase your culinary options greatly, with kebab restaurants and Italian menus dominating. Gusinje is truly a multicultural town – one street houses places of worship for believers in Orthodox Christianity, Catholicism, and Islam – and the peaceful atmosphere and community are richer for it.

If you time your visit to Gusinje right, you can enjoy their cheerful summer festival (Gusinje Fest) that is celebrated by the town over 4 weeks in July and August every year. The culturally rich program includes concerts, literary evenings, art exhibitions, child entertainment, and sports events such as the Prokletije Triathlon and the European Skyrunning Championship which was organized for the first time in Gusinje in 2023.

One of the biggest attractions in Gusinje are its Bronze-Age petroglyphs that can be visited up in the mountains above town. The archeological site Vezirova Brada is a moderately challenging two-hour walk from the center of town along a well-marked trail. Other stone carvings, including a slab with a sundial, can be explored around the Popadija Ridge.

Besides hiking and cycling, kayaking and fishing are two of the most beloved activities in Gusinje. Much of that has to do with the Ljuca River, a crystal-clear mountain stream that transports water from the Ali Pasha Springs and Oko Skakavice towards Lake Plav. Beyond Black Sea Trout and Arctic Grayling, Danube Salmon is also present and is certainly worth targeting in its own right.

Paragliding is also a thing in Gusinje, with some local tour agencies offering flights from take-off points nearby, including Mount Popadija, Mount Kofiljaca, and Mount Visitor. The Montenegrin Paragliding Association boasts many seasoned professionals who will be able to introduce you to tandem flight offers.

Restaurants in Gusinje

The main town square is dotted with a handful of local restaurants, serving primarily Italian classics alongside kebabs and other meat dishes known across the region. Simple yet authentic and tasty cuisine is never more than a stone’s throw away. But the local haunt not to miss is Ali Pasini Izvori, which has tables outside where you can absorb the local gossip.

In the same row, there is Restaurant Torina, an unpretentious place known for its delicious pizza which is probably the best in town. A little further afield, you’ll find the popular Restaurant Napolis. This family-run eatery uses traditional methods for roasting lamb and beef.

Hotels in Gusinje

The local hospitality scene is dominated by vacation rentals, simple inns, and guesthouses. Eco lodges and cabins are also popular with visitors to Gusinje. One of the best places to stay close to the center is the modest but very affordable Hotel Rosi, and there are other family-run hotels nearby such as Kula Nekovic, which offers accommodation in a renovated traditional stone building.

The bungalow complex Besektevic comes highly recommended, where the host, Shafika, will go out of her way to make you feel welcome. You can also enjoy a freshly prepared breakfast, leisurely lunch, or dinner from her and her team. Staying here offers you the convenience of being close to town while taking advantage of the serenity of the surrounding landscape.

Surrounding Areas

Summertime means ridge hikes or longer walks that can take you to glacial valleys and lakes. The Ali Pasha Springs are the town’s main attraction and can be reached within half an hour’s walk from the town center. They flow year-round at a constant temperature of 6 degrees Celsius and have been gushing cold water for centuries.

A bit further south, in the beautiful Ropojana Valley, you’ll find the Grlja Canyon & Waterfall and Oko Skakavice, another beautiful karst spring. The depth of the spring pond gives the water a mysterious deep blue color, and when seen from above, it resembles a human eye, with a dark pupil at its core. Not far from there is the little-known Kusije Waterfall which might also be well worth a visit.

Just above the Grebaje Valley rises Mount Volusnica, offering astonishing views of the craggy Prokletije peaks, with the green Popadija Ridge in the foreground. The hike up there is word-class and relatively easy. More challenge awaits those who aim to climb the Karanfili peaks, Mount Ocnjak, or the iconic Kissing Cats. Arriving atop, you can enjoy amazing views of Montenegro and Albania.

The neighboring Ropojana Valley has access to some of the best hiking trails imaginable. In the summer, hundreds of adventurers scale the peaks of Zla Kolata (Montenegro’s highest summit) and Maja e Rosit (Rosni Peak). The 192-km-long Peaks of the Balkans trails cuts right through the valley as well, connecting the beautiful Jezerce Lakes in Albania with the picturesque alpine meadows and pastures on the Montenegrin side.