Plav
Plav is a small town with a population of just 3,000 in the east of Montenegro, bordering Kosovo and Albania. Taking the new road via Albania, it’s just a one-hour drive from Podgorica, and yes, sleepy Plav feels a million miles away from the busy capital city and the vibrant coastal resorts of Montenegro.
History and Culture of Plav
Plav has been inhabited since at least Roman times being on the crossroads of important trade routes between Turkey, the Eastern Balkans, and Dalmatia, and its name probably derives from the Slavic word for ‘flood’. It was founded by the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century and the area’s population was largely made up of Albanian and Montenegrin tribes of Christian faith.
Most of the local population converted to Islam and the first mosque, the ‘Old Mosque‘, was constructed as early as 1471, making it the second-oldest one in Montenegro. The Muslim faith and culture came to dominate the town and its architecture for the coming centuries and they still do – more than 90% of the population is Muslim.
When the Ottoman Empire weakened in the aftermath of the First Balkan War in 1912, Plav was integrated into the newly-founded Montenegrin state. It is now very much a residential town and has surprisingly managed to stay mostly under the radar. But this is slowly changing. Plav is a good place to visit if you are interested in experiencing a genuine Montenegro, one that is very different from the one on the Adriatic coast.
Attractions in Plav
Seemingly, all roads in Plav lead to the Carsija quarter, where the Old Mosque (also called Wooden Mosque), the Sultanija Mosque, and the Redzepagic Tower dominate the townscape. The tower is preserved as an ethnographic museum, showcasing a small selection of traditional attire and household items and giving insight into Plav’s traditions and way of life.
Perched atop a hillside, this 17th-century edifice offers commanding views of the surroundings, and it is easy to see how it played an important role in the town’s defense in the past. While its upper floor is made of wood, the lower floors are built of stone. The 13th-century Monastery of the Holy Trinity is located on the outskirts of Plav on the left bank of the River Lim and is one of the oldest monasteries in Montenegro.
Things to do in Plav
Most people come to Plav to enjoy the incredible beauty of Lake Plav and the mountains surrounding it. Nature lovers, sports enthusiasts, and anglers are all catered for here. Plav is a destination with broad appeal, attracting families with children, couples, and groups of friends looking for a small adventure in a pristine setting.
There is no shortage of things to do around the lake during all seasons. Summer is a fantastic time of the year to visit. You can then hire a kayak or paddle boat and explore the shores of the lake on your own. Taking the plunge into the lake is only for the faint-hearted though should you visit outside of July and August – the water is clear and icy.
Fishing, and especially fly fishing, is very popular in the lake and the River Lim that feeds out of it. The waters are rich in all sorts of trout, including the brown trout, the black sea trout, and the arctic grayling. They grow up to impressive sizes – a huchen weighing more than 40 kilograms was caught here among others.
If you are feeling more adventurous, you can also do a thrilling kayak trip down the Ljuca River which is a tributary to Lake Plav. Known for its breathtaking natural beauty, rafting through the 16 kilometers of emerald green streams and picturesque riverscape is an incredible experience for nature enthusiasts and sportists of all ages.
Thanks to Plav’s location wedged between Mount Visitor and the Accursed Mountains, hiking is hugely popular here, too. Close to town starts the leisurely, 2-kilometer-long ‘Skic hiking trail’ that traverses beautiful coniferous forests. Other popular trails – some easy and others more challenging – take you to nearby natural landmarks such as Lake Hrid, and the peaks of the Visitor and Memine mountain ranges.
Few people visit Plav in the winter but it’s certainly possible to find fun amid the winter chills. From the end of December until the end of February, Lake Plav is frozen and then turns into a large, see-through ice skating rink. Skiing is also a thing in Plav, the Paljevi ski center on Mount Kofiljaci is just a few kilometers away and offers a relaxed winter sports experience and breathtaking views of the Plav-Gusinje Valley.
Alternatively, Mount Bogicevica in the tri-border area between Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania offers excellent slopes and conditions (an abundance of fresh powder snow) for snowboarding, backcountry skiing, and ski touring. There is an annual free-ride camp taking place in nearby Katun Gradine.
If you love adrenaline but plan to visit during the warmer months, maybe taking a tandem paragliding flight from Mount Visitor or Mount Kofiljaca is all you need. Nasa Krila is a local paragliding club with many seasoned instructors offering flights in Plav and other spots across Northern Montenegro.
Mountain biking is becoming increasingly popular in Plav and many interesting natural landmarks can be reached within just a couple of kilometers. A relatively easy tour takes you along the banks of the Ljuca River to Gusinje and further to the Ali Pasha Springs and back. More challenging routes include ascends to Lake Visitor, Lake Hrid, and Mount Kofiljaca.
The mountains and valleys around Plav are one of the few areas in Europe with a sizeable population of birds of prey, including the European Honey Buzzard, the Short-Toed Snake Eagle, the Golden Eagle, and the Peregrine Falcon. Lake Plav itself plays host to many species of grebes, egrets, coots, and ducks.
Birdwatching in Montenegro
Montenegro sits on the Adriatic Flyway between Northern Europe and Western Africa, making birdwatching in Montenegro a great experience.
Surrounding Areas to Plav
Plav is anchored to the south by the Prokletije National Park, a must-visit during your trip to this part of Montenegro. This pristine nature reserve is one of five national parks in Montenegro and extends over more than 1600 hectares on the Montenegrin side of the Accursed Mountains. It also contains Zla Kolata which is the highest summit in Montenegro at 2,534 meters above sea level.
Steep and craggy karst mountain peaks give the Prokletije mountains an incredibly picturesque and dramatic feel. Out of its six glacial lakes, Hrid Lake probably stands out as the most beautiful. Sitting at an altitude of 1970 meters, it is surrounded by dense pine forests, and backed by the lofty peaks of Mount Bogicevica.
This region is also well-known for its ice-cold karst wells that come out of great depth, most notably Oko Skakvice and the Ali Pasha Springs. This extraordinarily translucent and turquoise-colored karst spring is about eight meters deep and is the only source of the Skakavica – the river that later merges with the Grlja River. Oko Skakavice is also known as ‘The Eye’.
The Grlja Waterfalls are certainly worth a visit as well, especially in autumn and spring during the snowmelt when the river carries an abundance of water which is responsible for powerful and fast streamflows. It is here that the Grlja River squeezes through a tight canyon and then plunges 20 meters.
The waterfalls can be seen from the top, and there is also a restaurant with a spacious outdoor terrace from where you can marvel at the raw forces of nature in all serenity. Two kilometers downstream, at the striking Ali Pasha Springs, the Grlja harmoniously merges with the Vruja River before continuing its journey to Lake Plav.
The picture-perfect Ropojana Valley is situated close to Oko Skakavice and is certainly one of the most gorgeous spots in Montenegro. Some of the country’s most gorgeous hiking trails start from here such as the Volusnica Hike which is renowned for offering some of the best panoramic views of the Karanfili mountain range.
Not far from there and also bordering Albania, on the other side of the Karanfili, you’ll find Grebaje Valley which also offers access to scenic hiking trails. It sits right at the Peaks of the Balkans Trail which meanders through this valley before crossing into Albanian territory towards the village of Theth. One thing is sure, this almost untouched piece of Montenegrin highlands shouldn’t be ignored.
Events in Plav
The small mountain town of Plav boasts only a few annual fairs and festivals: in August you can sample a variety of local produce at the one-day honey fair in the center of town where stalls sell a wide variety of locally harvested honey. This event is followed by the Plavski Otkos, a traditional grass-cutting competition.
Celebrating the harvest of pasture grass is a highlight of the town’s calendar. In this event, participants are given an equally-sized plot of grass and the competition is to see who can scythe theirs in the least amount of time. Custom has it that you’ll spot some townspeople proudly displaying their colorful attire while the competitors work hard to win.
Last but not least, the most important event in Plav is the annual Blueberry Festival which is traditionally held over two weeks in July and culminates on the final day with the crowning of Miss Blueberry. Visitors can sample a variety of blueberry treats, packed full of nutrients. The event is accompanied by a rich cultural program, including plenty of pop & folk concerts, movie nights, and activities for the little ones.
Restaurants in Plav
Plav has a smattering of restaurants, cafes, and taverns serving typical Montenegrin food. Several restaurants also offer great views of the lake and mountains. Unmissable places to eat include the Izvor Kebab Restaurant and the Hotel Restaurant ABAS for regional cuisine, while TIMM specializes in Pizza.
Hotels in Plav
Calm, traditional, and full of charming touches, the Aqua Resort Plav is well-located right at the waterfront and boasts stunning lake and mountain views. Even if the design is rather simple, you can’t help but be enchanted by the generous hospitality, the serene atmosphere, and the tasty, authentic food in the hotel restaurant.
The area around Plav also has a few decent vacation rentals and etno selos (simple countryside cabins or bungalows) which offer affordable accommodation and basic amenities in a natural setting. Camping at Lake Plav or in the Ropojana Valley or Grebaje Valley is another option for nature enthusiasts.