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Established in 2009, the Prokletije National Park is one of Montenegro’s 5 national parks. Luckily, it is also the least visited and patiently awaits your discovery. This place of silky alpine meadows and grey summits of 2,500 meters, where golden eagles share their habitat with wolves and brown bears, is easy to reach from the country’s capital Podgorica.
Beyond this craggy, untouched landscape, the Montenegrin Accursed Mountains (Montenegrin: Prokletije) hold the legacy as one of the most mysterious mountains and are literally damned for their remoteness. Blankets of snow in winter, crimson autumns, springs for walking deep into the beech forests, summers for hikes up to glacial lakes and green karst ridges; in the Prokletije National Park, every season has its charms.
The Valleys
The Prokletije National Park encompasses two picturesque valleys, a place of untouched natural beauty awaiting your discovery. The emerald green meadows full of yellow and purple wildflowers but only a few inhabitants living in traditional log and stone cabins, are dotted across the eminently pastoral landscape.
The Ropojana Valley has garnered little fame sitting right at the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, a 192-kilometer-long transnational hiking route connecting Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. Thanks to the valley’s abundance of drinkable water, with karst wells incessantly pushing ice-cold water to the surface, hikers look forward to refilling their bottles here.
Uniting the counties of Plav and Gusinje, and sitting between some of Montenegro’s most powerful mountain ranges like the mystical Karanfili Group, both valleys make up beautiful rural amphitheaters. From walking in the lush beech forests and hiking up the Dolomites-like peaks to exploring the area’s rich and diverse culture and traditions, they offer plenty of activities for the whole family.
Things to Do in the Prokletije National Park
From savoring genuine mountain cuisine and staying in authentic eco lodges to discovering some of Europe’s finest glacial lakes, the Prokletije National Park offers adventure, tranquility, and breathtaking mountain views at every step. Hiking, challenging the vertical peaks, and relaxing in the charming alpine meadows are real pleasures here.
Discover the Grlja Waterfall
One of Montenegro’s largest single-drop waterfalls, Grlja is a powerful display of nature’s brute force, especially during the snowmelt in late spring and early summer. As the water in the Accursed Mountains continues to phase from solid to liquid, the Grlja River gushes through a striking canyon, forming intense rapids, high water flows, and even rainbows along the way.
Ice-cold water accumulates at the base of the waterfall in a 4-meter deep plunge pool. Few people know that there are actually five waterfalls and a series of smaller ponds within the canyon that never dry up. The Grlja Waterfall can dry up after long periods of drought in late summer or early autumn.
Hike the Loop Trail around Mount Volusnica
The Volusnica-Talijanka-Popadija day hike outshines all others for its effortlessness and magnificent views, making you perhaps even feel like you don’t deserve them. It is a fantastic circular hike of four to five hours, through beech forests and over scenic ridgelines, offering breathtaking scenery at every step.
The single best composition of the Karanfili, some of Montenegro’s most dramatic karst summits, can be captured from the Talijanka Peak (2,057 meters). From there, you have a picture-perfect alpine panorama with the emerald green Popadija Ridge in the foreground that contrasts perfectly against the pale grey limestone peaks of the Accursed Mountains.
Admire the Beauty of Oko Skakavice
Originating at the base of the Albanian Alps, Oko Skakavice is a captivating natural karst spring, resembling an enigmatic blue eye with a dark pupil when viewed from above. Ice-cold groundwater bubbles up to the surface, forming the Skakavica River against a backdrop of verdant greenery.
This only 2,500-meter-long river is a beauty in its majesty and counts several scenic cascades on its way toward the Grlja Waterfalls. The closer you get to them, the louder they hum away in the green valley. Oko Skakavice is a popular stop on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, and swimming in the jade-colored pond is possible.
Kissing Cats and Sjeverni Vrh
One of the most enchanting focal points in the Prokletije National Park is the Suplja Vrata stone formation below the Karanfili Group. From Grebaje Valley, the jagged limestone peaks look like two kissing cats, eternally merged and isolated from their craggy surroundings at the same time.
There is a bench in the valley from where you can look up to the Kissing Cats, and climbing up there is an option, too. It is often combined with an ascent to Sjeverni Vrh (2,460 meters), one of the Karanfili peaks. The hike up is challenging right from the start and should only be undertaken by experienced climbers.
The Kissing Cats sit at an altitude of 2,090 meters within a mountain pass that connects Mount Ocnjak (2,185 m) with the Karanfili mountain range. Look through this arched stone formation, and you see the silky alpine meadows of Popadija – one of the Prkletije’s most beautiful spots. The best time to hike in the Accursed Mountains is from the end of June till the end of September.
Unwind at Lake Ropojana
The Ropojana Valley is one of the most picturesque glacial valleys in this part of Europe. To reach Lake Ropojana, which sits right at the border with Albania, you need to meander through peaceful alpine meadows bursting with vibrant wildflowers, bees, and butterflies, a harmonic natural balance rarely found these days.
Make your stay in this small utopia an opportunity for a leisurely family hike – it’s one hour from Oko Skakavice – and swim in the lake. The beauty and diversity of the alpine landscape, which exudes a unique charm and an almost magnetic pull, will most certainly enchant you. Lake Ropojana is a seasonal lake and may dry up in August.
Walk Around Lake Hrid
Lake Hrid is an alpine lake at the foot of the north face of the Bogicevica mountain range, a towering massif with two peaks higher than 2,500 meters, which creates a photographic backdrop of the lake. It sits at an altitude of 1,968 meters and is hidden in dense, picturesque pine and spruce forests.
Thanks to its remote location in the mountainous border area and inaccessibility, Lake Hrid has remained pretty much a secret amid untouched, pristine nature. The route to the lake is difficult and only suitable for offroad vehicles and experienced drivers, while the last section can only be traversed on foot.
There is a forested hiking trail from Bajrovica Katun, from where it takes two hours to reach the lake. The path delivers surprising treats: wild blueberries and raspberries grow wild and free along the trail, ready to be foraged straight off the bush. There is another out-and-back trail starting at the alpine hut in Babino Polje; taking 12,5 kilometers to complete.
You can walk around the whole lake within half an hour on a moderately difficult path, including larger stones and fallen stables. A trip to Lake Hrid might also involve a glacial plunge in water that is as clean as wild swimming water will ever get. From the lake, you can hike up Hridski Krs (2,358 meters) via a beautiful trail that offers sensational lake views.
Climb Montenegro’s Highest Peak
Zla Kolata is Montenegro’s highest summit, measuring 2,534 meters, and climbing it is an experience you will never forget. The Kolata Group is one of the most stunning formations within the Accursed Mountains, straddling the border between Montenegro and Albania, with its highest peak (Maja e Kollates – 2,553 m) being on Albanian territory.
Zla Kolata is often overlooked, and you might find yourself alone on the trail, even in high season. This is a one-day hike from Vusanje in the Ropojana Valley and is only recommended to experienced, adventurous hikers who are well-prepared to tackle the craggy karst terrain, arduous ascents, and hands-on scrambling to the top.
Montenegro’s highest top bewitches with breathtaking views of Valbona Valley, Maja Jezerce (the highest summit of the Accursed Mountains, located on the Albanian side), and other popular peaks stretching far into the distance. The Zla-Kolata-Hike takes ten hours to complete and shares a small section with the Peaks of the Balkans Trail.
Marvel at Ancient Rock Carvings
During the Bronze Age, Illyrian tribes settled the valleys and highlands of the Albanian Alps, leaving behind mysterious petroglyphs. Close to the summit of Mount Popadija on a meadow, you’ll find a stone slab with petroglyphs depicting anthropomorphic figures. It is not easy to find but you might consider exploring it during your Volusnica hike.
Recently, a bronze-age analemmatic sundial has been discovered close to that location as well. And there is another rock carving site – just three kilometers south of Gusinje – on a yellow vertical cliff at the foot of Mount Vezirova Brada. A short hiking trail starts in Gusinje and leads to this site, offering striking views of Zla Kolata and the village of Vusanje along the way.
Experience the Thrill of Paragliding
The Prokletije National Park is the perfect place for a little outdoor excitement. Paragliding flights can be organized from the start-off point on Mount Volusnica, right at the border with Albania. Paragliding is an enchanting way to experience the wild beauty of the Accursed Mountains from an aerial perspective while crafting memories to last a lifetime.
You don’t need to have any previous experience to ride tandem with a qualified instructor. The Montenegro Paragliding Association ([email protected]) will be able to connect you with local paragliding companies and tour operators offering different levels of rides and start-off locations.
Explore the Depth of the Grlja Canyon
Descending into the obscure depths of the Grlja Canyon is an adrenaline-fueled adventure that will catapult you out of your comfort zone. The 500-meter-deep dive should only be undertaken by experienced canyoneers – the water is ice-cold requiring you to wear two wetsuits at once.
Going down the canyon is only possible from the second half of August until October; this is when the water levels are the lowest and you can explore nature’s untamed beauty without getting washed away by the powerful stream of water cutting through the canyon. Currently, organized tours are exclusively offered by Slobodni Penjaci Cetinje.
Backcountry Ski Touring
Ski tour through the backcountry of Plav and Gusinje, exploring the dramatic Accursed Mountains, where craggy towering peaks give way to long descents. Without lift lines and crowds, you’ll feel like having all these beautiful mountains to yourself. There are several routes across the Prokletije National Park catering to all skill levels.
The area from Babino Polje to the tri-junction of Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania, around Mount Bogicevica, is the most popular for ski touring and free riding. Those who are willing to put in the effort and hike to unapproachable peaks will be rewarded with an incessant supply of powder snow and off-piste ski descents.
Kusije Waterfall
Undoubtedly one of the most picturesque natural landmarks in this part of Montenegro, the Kusije Waterfall is a small paradise of tranquility where connecting with nature comes easily. It is a beautiful, two-kilometer walk from the Grlja Waterfalls. Surrounded by thick, lush forests, the water flows over walls of moss-covered limestone, looking like something straight from a painting.
Hike to the Trojan Peak
One of the largest and one of the most beautiful mountain groups in the Accursed Mountains is often overlooked. The Trojan massif, or simply Trojan, is straddling the border between Montenegro and Albania on the northern side of the Prokletije National Park. It boasts three peaks with the Veliki Vrh being the highest at 2,194 meters.
Trojan is easily accessible from Grebaje Valley. From here, you can venture up to the Popadija Katun and reach the peak via the iconic Trojan mountain arch (1,950 meters). Allow 8 – 9 hours to complete (roundtrip), maybe slightly longer if you take more breaks along the way to capture the breathtaking scenery.
Reaching the top, you will immediately realize why it is widely considered the single best viewpoint of the Karanfili, with the lush green Popadija Ridge in the foreground. All of the most prominent summits of the Accursed Mountains are in plain sight from here, including the Rosni Peak (2,524 m) and Maja Jezerce (2,694 m) in Albania.
Observe Birds in their Natural Habitat
The Prokletije National Park is one of the most important centers for bird-watching in Montenegro besides Skadar Lake, the Solila Nature Reserve in Tivat, and the Ulcinj Saltpans. The park is recognized as an Emerald habitat under the Bern Convention and an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) thanks to being a breeding site for many birds of prey, including golden eagles, short-toed snake eagles, and peregrine falcons.
While it gets busy high up in the peaks of the Accursed Mountains during summer, birds populate Grebaje Valley and Ropojana Valley throughout the entire year and build their nests on the surrounding cliffs. Birdwatching tours and holidays are offered by several local companies.
Hit the Mountain Biking Trails
Discover the charm of the Prokletije National Park with its authentic villages, crystal-clear mountain rivers, and picture-perfect alpine meadows by bike. The Osmica Trail is an eight-shape cycling route connecting the settlements of the Plav-Gusinje Valley, allowing you to choose either a western or eastern loop.
It traverses the Ljuca River in Martinovici, runs through some of the most beautiful areas of this region, and passes by Lake Plav and Ali Pasha Springs. Other popular trails take you from Vusanje to Karaula Zastan, from Plav to Babino Polje and beyond, and across the valleys of Ropojana and Grebaje.
Enjoy the Landscape on Horseback
Saddle up and enjoy the National Park’s striking scenery on the back of slow and steady mountain horses. The family-run Dedushi Guest House in Vusanje offers half-day and day rides, providing a gentle introduction to the world of Montenegrin horseback riding on traditional wooden saddles.
Surrounding Areas
The Prokletije National Park lies close to the small mountain towns of Plav and Gusinje which are popularly explored by bike. The picturesque Ali Pasha Springs, a network of 25 natural karst springs gushing ice-cold water to the surface, are 1,5 kilometers south of Gusinje and well worth a visit.
A trip to Plav, meandering through its Ottoman-era historical quarter, visiting the 15th-century Wooden Mosque, the Redzepagic Tower, taking the scenic Skic hiking trail, and hiring a kayak and exploring the shores of Lake Plav makes for a pleasant day out. Fly fishing is popular in the lake and in the River Lim that feeds out of it.