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In the Ropojana Valley, you can admire alpine glacial beauty at every step. Wedged between the craggy peaks of the Accursed Mountains, the valley offers a serene escape from your busy lifestyle. Rolling emerald hills, pristine mountain streams, and abundant wildlife provide a picture-perfect setting for sky-high hiking, rock climbing, and photography.
Take the trail through the Ropojana Valley, from the small village of Vusanje to the seasonal Lake Ropojana, straddling the border with Albania. The striking 7-kilometer-long trail leads you through the nooks and crannies of the Prokletije National Park. The valley is known for its beautiful karst springs and waterfalls.
Oko Skakavice is a turquoise-colored, translucent wellspring, surrounded by lush forest, that runs down the valley. Observe how the ice-cold groundwater bubbles up from the earth’s interior to the surface and then feeds into the Skakavica River. This newly-formed river then merges with the Grlja River just 2,500 meters from its origin at the Oko Skakavice.
The Grlja Waterfall, just 800 meters downstream, is another one of nature’s masterpieces, plunging 20 meters into a deep gorge and then continuing to flow towards Lake Plav. Watch the brutal forces of nature while having a snack or drink at the Hartini Restaurant which finds itself adjacent to the waterfall.
The hiking trails to some of Montenegro’s highest summits start in the Ropojana Valley, suitable for enthusiast climbers. Zla Kolata, Montenegro’s highest peak measuring 2,534 meters, is a strenuous 10-kilometer hike from the trailhead in Katun Zarunica or Vusanje, while the Rosni Peak (2,524 meters) is accessible from Karaula Zastan.
The Zla Kolata hike takes you through forests, alpine meadows, and eventually to a belvedere offering incredible vistas of the Albanian peaks, including Maja Jezerce at 2,694 meters. The long and arduous passages make it a challenge for unfit hikers, but the mountain passes – Cafa Borit at 1810 m and Preslopi at 2,039 m – come as welcoming breaks.
The path rises firmly through rough terrain until reaching the pass between Zla Kolata (evil peak) and Dobra Kolata (good peak) where the trail splits; turn right towards Zla Kolata. You need to fight and scramble to the top. In the immediate vicinity, you’ll also find Ravna Kolata (highest peak at 2,556 m) which lies on the Albanian side and is easily recognizable by its flat and grassy summit.
Take note that there are no water sources during your ascent and that it will take you an entire day hiking (6 hours up and 4 hours down) to reach Zla Kolata, so start early and only when weather conditions permit. Bears inhabit almost all parts of this trail and are occasionally spotted along the way.
The ascent to the jagged limestone peak of Maja Rosit (Rosni Peak) is another incredible hike in the Prokletije National Park. The Ropojana Valley is the starting point for this rather difficult trail to Montenegro’s third-highest peak. The path leads through beautiful beech forests, pastures, and past Karaula Zastan, a former military hut.
Here the route splits from the trail to Buni i Jezerces (Great Valley of Lakes) and Maja Jezerce, Albania’s highest summit. After some more climbing through forest and green alpine meadows, the Rosni Peak is now finally visible. From there, it does not take much to reach the next mountain pass, Cafa Forumit which sits at an altitude of 2,180 meters and right at the border of Montenegro and Albania.
The final part of the trail traverses a steep, grassy slope before finally reaching the lofty Rosni Peak at 2,524 meters. Arriving here will confirm the generally held notion that Maja Rosit offers the opportunity to bask in the Accursed Mountain’s most dramatic panoramas from a spot just outside of heaven.
The peak opens up to absolutely incredible views of Maja Jezerce, the Kolata and Karanfili peaks, the Komovi mountains, and the 13-kilometer-long Majet e Zabores Range. From there, you can also look out onto Valbona Valley, Gusinje, and the Ali Pasha Springs.
Restaurants
There are a handful of casual mountain restaurants in the village of Vusanje. They serve rich Alpine dishes, making sure you are well-fuelled for your ascents. Kacamak is a popular traditional dish that you have to try; it is made of potatoes, cheese, and kajmak and is one of Montenegro’s national dishes. Restaurant Hartini has a genuine local vibe and pleasant terrace seating above the Grlja Canyon and Waterfall.
Accommodation
There are no hotels or other forms of accommodation within the boundaries of the Prokletije National Park but you have a good choice of bed and breakfasts, vacation rentals, lodges, and campsites in Vusanje. Staying just beyond the park borders is within walking distance from the Grlja Waterfall and Oko Skakavice. If camping is what you want, the best place to stay overnight is the meadow next to Lake Ropojana or close to the trailheads.
In the immediate outskirts of Vusanje, there is Eko Katun Rosi (Old Tower), a bed and breakfast where you can find accommodation in alpine-style cabins or the carefully renovated stone house. A bit closer to the Peaks of Balkans trailhead, you will find the Moonlight House, a rustic lodge offering homemade food and spacious rooms, overlooking the valley.
Surrounding Areas
Ropojana Valley has access to 7 kilometers of the Peaks of the Balkans trail for hiking, mountain biking, and overnight camping. This Vusanje-to-Theth section of the trail crosses the border between Montenegro and Albania and passes Lake Pejes before meandering through the Theth Valley.
Another trail that starts in Vusanje leads you via Karaula Zastan to Buni Jezerces in Albania. Of the six glacial lakes, Liqeni i Madh is the largest one. Follow the trail as it wraps along the mountainscape until Maja Jezerce, the highest peak of the Accursed Mountains and one of the most challenging climbs in the Balkans.
The Ropojana Valley neighbors Grebaje Valley and you can easily visit both of them in a single trip. Gusinje is a nearby small town that can easily be explored by bike. A trip to Lake Plav, a wander through its Ottoman-era old town, a visit to the Redzepagic Tower and the Old Mosque, and a small kayaking adventure on the lake make for a pleasant day out.