Accursed Mountains
The Accursed Mountains (Montenegrin: Prokletije, Albanian: Bjeshket e Nemuna; also known as the Albanian Alps) are a 60-kilometer-long mountain range straddling the borders of Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania and are undoubtedly one of the prettiest undiscovered alpine destinations in Europe.
Regardless if you’re out hiking, cycling, skiing, or just driving, you’ll be enchanted by the picturesque glacial lakes, deep river canyons, unspoiled valleys, stunning waterfalls, emerald green alpine meadows, and incredibly steep vertical mountain slopes that define the dramatic karst landscape of the Accursed Mountains.
The twenty or so peaks that exceed 2,500 meters, pierce the sky and light up in blazing shades of rose and cerise at dawn or as the day draws to a close. Down in the sparsely populated valleys, time stands still, with sheep and cows grazing on juicy green pastures, smothering all traces of any hustle and bustle.
This dazzling contrast between craggy peaks and calm, silky meadows is what makes the Albanian Alps so magical, exuding an almost magnetic pull. The Accursed Mountains are probably one of the most remote, pure, and obscure, corners of Europe, far off the tourist trail and the name is no surprise either – they’re damn inaccessible.
For the adventurer and nature enthusiast, this corner of the Balkans is heaven on earth. In summer, you can go hut-to-hut hiking, kayaking, via-ferrata-climbing, and mountain biking. In winter, you can go ski touring and free riding – perhaps surprisingly, there are no major ski resorts to be found.
The best time to hike here is from the end of June to the end of September. This is when the trails are free of snow and guest houses and mountain huts are open for visitors. Traveling to these mountains in May is a hit or miss because the weather is largely unpredictable with the possibility of heavy rain and storms.
The Accursed Mountains are one of the wettest regions in Europe; that means it rains a lot, particularly in the shoulder season. Trails are officially open year-round but many restaurants and lodges close during the winter months, making it hard to find places to stay and eat. While late summer/early autumn is one of the most idyllic times to visit, you should avoid the month of November when there can already be snow or ice on the trails.
History and Culture
When we think of mountains, we often think of the liberating sense of freedom they provide, about the quaint stone villages, and the shepherds who take their sheep to high alpine meadows. We don’t necessarily think of forbidding Cold-War-Era concrete bunkers sitting in picturesque valleys, surrounded by wildflowers and butterflies.
Due to civil wars and paranoid communist dictatorships, the Albanian Alps have been largely cordoned off to outsiders for the better part of the 20th century. Enver Hoxha, Albania’s infamous communist leader, built almost a million of them in his heyday during the 1960s and 1970s fearing invasion from both the West and the Soviet Union.
Kosovo and Montenegro were part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia until a bloody civil war in the 1990s tore this ethnically diverse area apart. Up until World War I, the entire region was occupied for centuries by the Ottoman Empire, which undoubtedly left a mark on the cultural identity and customs of its people.
Islam continues to be the primary religion in large swaths of the Accursed Mountains, most notably in southern Montenegro and Kosovo while Roman Catholicism dominates on the Albanian side. When traversing this mountain range, take note that street signage can be written in either Serbo-Croat or Albanian, or both.
Best Places to Stay
The Albanian Alps stretch across three separate countries and it can be difficult to grasp just how large and diverse this mountain range is. The valleys on the Montenegrin side are all about discovering ice-cold karst springs and turquoise-colored glacial lakes and getting a glimpse of the stunning Karanfili Peaks. The Albanian and Kosovarian valleys, on the other hand, have the highest peaks alongside stunning caves and waterfalls.
Plav is a prominent mountain town on the shores of Lake Plav which is the largest and one of the most beautiful glacial lakes in this stunning area. Plav is the best base for kayaking, fly fishing, and hiking to Lake Hrid, Lake Abdijino, Mount Kofiljaca (a popular paragliding take-off point), Krs Bogicevica, Hridski Krs, and the Visitor mountain range.
Ropojana Valley is that vale that stretches from Shelegut Pass to the Karanfili in the eastern part of the massif. This is one of the best places to stay if you’re traveling without a car. The top attractions here are Lake Ropojana which sits right at the border with Albania, Oko Skakavice, the Ali Pasha Springs, and the Rosni Peak, the third-highest summit in Montenegro.
The valley is also the gateway to the Great Valley of Lakes (Buni Jezerces) and Maja Jezerce, the highest summit of the Albanian Alps. Grebaje Valley is wedged between the Karanfili peaks and Mount Volusnica in the northern part of the Prokletije National Park in Montenegro. It offers access to the Volusnica-Talijanka-Popadija hiking trail which is not very challenging but very rewarding.
The valley is one of the most picturesque and most remote spots in the Accursed Mountains, and even the Peaks of the Balkans Trail does not pass here. Though most people only visit for a few hours, it is undoubtedly worth staying a few nights here to hike the Kissing Cats Trail (Suplja Vrata) and climb Sjeverni Vrh, and Ocnjak.
Theth is a popular alpine village in the upper Shala Valley and part of the Alps of Albania National Park. The 192-kilometer-long Peaks of the Balkans Trail starts here, making this dreamlike valley one of the best bases for hikers. The harmonic balance between centuries-old Catholic tradition and tranquil nature is both surprising and difficult to find.
Theth’s cultural heritage includes the iconic Church of Theth and a 17th-century Lock-in Tower, a refuge for families trapped in a blood feud. From Theth it is easy to access the 30-meter Grunas Waterfall, the ‘Blue Eye’, a beautiful karst spring, and Mount Arapit which lures visitors with its 800-meter-tall vertical south wall.
Valbona Valley is an unforgettable place to stay in case you want to be surrounded by tranquil meadows and towering, craggy peaks. It is the perfect base for unhurried exploration of more than 200 kilometers of trails, most notably to Maja e Thate, Maja e Kollates, and Rosni Peak. It also boasts the Valbona River, the largest river within the Accursed Mountains, cutting right through the valley.
Theth bounds Valbona Valley in the West, the Nikaj-Mertur Nature Park in the South, the Proletije National Park in the North, and the Gashi River in the east and northeast. The National Parks of Theth, Valbona, and Gashi River have been merged into the Alps of Albania National Park, covering more than 8,000 hectares now.
Doberdoll is a good base for hiking to Mount Tromedja which defines the trijunction between Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo and grants panoramic views of all three countries. Doberdoll sits in a natural amphitheater surrounded by soft, emerald green meadows and purple heather flowers.
Its verdant hills are attractive not only to us but also to horses who run here freely and sheep who graze the hillsides. Stay here if you want to visit the striking glacial lakes of the UNESCO-protected Gashi Valley, most prominently Lake Dash. The Gashi Valley constitutes one of the largest and most beautiful alpine pastures in the region.
Geographically small but culturally rich, Pec in Kosovo is home to some of the Balkan’s finest architecture and cultural heritage, including the Patriarchate of Pec Serbian Orthodox Monastery, the 14th-century Decani Monastery (19 kilometers south of Pec and under UNESCO protection), and a smattering of mosques and old Ottoman-Era houses lining its narrow cobblestone streets.
Pec is widely considered to be the capital city of the Albanian Alps and serves as a gateway to the stunning Rugova Canyon. It is also the best base for hiking Mount Gjeravica, Kosovo’s highest summit measuring 2,656m, and Mount Hajla – the highest and possibly the most magnificent in the northern part of this mountain range – boasting an abundance of waterfalls, glacial lakes, and many still unexplored caves.
Regional Food and Drinks
Food is a major part of life in the Accursed Mountains, and with all the exhilarating outdoor recreation, you can be certain that it is all very hearty Alpine cuisine. The emphasis is very much on milk and dairy products, local lamb and slow-cooked beef specialties, porridges with clotted cream, and other carbohydrate-rich foods and desserts, naturally accompanied by glasses of rakia (fruit brandy).
Cheeses and creams will have come from cattle grazed on high Alpine pastures, featuring a distinctive grassy note, kajmak and sheep’s cheese will be in abundance, and although the Adriatic shore is not exactly close, fresh river trout is a popular dish here as well and is served in many restaurants.
Graylings and trouts are caught in the lakes and crystal-clear rivers originating from springs high up in the mountains and valleys. With the introduction of maize in the Balkans, it also became a staple in local mountain cuisine and today is mainly found in the form of Proja, Cicvara, and Kacamak which is alternatively made from potatoes.
The typical dishes of this region also include many variations of sweet and savory pies made from thin layers of filo pastry such as Burek (Albanian: Byrek) or Flija. Traditional Balkan culture and cordial hospitality permeate all facets of life in the border region between Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania.
Turkish coffee is an indispensable part of local culture and is served in small coffee cups (fincan or fildzan) from a copper boiling pot (cezve or dzezva), often alongside homemade urmasice, a soft biscuit soaked in honey and sugar syrup. Priganice (Albanian: Petulla) are fried dough balls, a popular breakfast dish that is served with kajmak, jam, and honey.
Things to do
The Accursed Mountains are what outdoorsy dreams are made of. It’s a wild and rugged region that is perfect for those who want to breathe the cleanest air in the world, admire the little pastures marked out with wooden fences, and challenge themselves to a few memorable hikes, kayak rides, and other outdoor adventures.
Yes, for adrenaline-craving free riders it’s a phenomenal place to go in the winter to have some fun in the fluffy powder snow blanketing the off-pistes, but it’s also a place where families or groups of friends can find some fun year-round.
Hike the Volusnica Loop
The Volusnica-Popadija-Talijanka circuit trail is one of those hikes you need to add to your bucket list, promising unforgettable adventures while being easy on your feet. The 11-kilometer loop is rated as moderate, and if you time your ascend for July or August, you could walk through mesmerizing alpine meadows with wildflowers, too. Atop, you’ll be rewarded with stupendous views of the iconic Kranfili Peaks – they look their best from here.
Discover the Stunning Jezerce Lakes
These little-known and almost obscure mountains are also home to their fair share of picturesque, gin-clear glacial lakes, but none are as scenic as the ones in the Great Valley of Lakes (Albanian: Buni Jezerzes). The six glacial lakes sit on the Albanian side of the Accursed Mountains, close to Ropojana Valley and Maja Jezerce, Albania’s second-highest summit.
Spend the Night in a Katun
Find a peaceful night of restful sleep in one of the katuns (which translates to “alpine shepherd’s settlement”) found all across the Accursed Mountains. Spots like Samelova Koliba Prokletije offer simple yet cozy rooms with breathtaking views. Wake up with freshly brewed Turkish coffee watching shepherds with their livestock in high pastures and head straight out the door for a hike to Lake Hrid.
Go on a Little Kayak Adventure
Whitewater enthusiasts can enjoy a good dose of extreme kayaking down stretches of the Valbona (Albania) and Ljuca (Montenegro) rivers while enjoying spectacular alpine scenery along the way. Everyday folks and beginner kayakers will find calmer and safer waters at Lake Koman and Lake Plav.
In summer, with its gracile emerald green waters that are ringed by the jagged peaks of the Prokletije, Lake Plav in Montenegro is perfect for a little paddling adventure. Lake Koman (one of Albania’s most beautiful lakes) is located south of Theth and offers plenty of opportunities for calm and peaceful exploration by kayak or canoe.
Climb the Queen of the Accursed Mountains
Experience astonishing vistas by climbing Maja Jezerce, the Accursed Mountain’s highest summit. At 2,694 meters, reaching Maja Jezerce is the very definition of a challenging yet achievable hiking goal, delivering incredible scenery that will leave you speechless. There is one trailhead in Ropojana Valley and another one in Valbona Valley.
Explore the Hidden Wonders of Kosovo’s Caves
Now that you’ve thoroughly experienced the summits of the Albanian Alps, it’s time to explore the mountains from the inside with a tour of the Great Canyon Cave in Kosovo. Its extensive labyrinth of corridors, underground lakes, waterfalls, and rivers is certainly a magical world worth exploring for the whole family.
Hike to Zla Kolata
Get a bird’s-eye view of Valbona and the pale, craggy Accursed Mountains with a scenic hike to the top of Zla Kolata (2,534 meters) which is the highest summit in Montenegro and accessible either from the trailhead in Ropojana Valley or Valbona Valley. This is a full-day hike (10 hours) either way but will reward you with unforgettable views and magnificent photo opportunities.
Horseback Riding
Follow emblematic nature trails and witness the magic of the Accursed Mountains on horseback. Pass through beech woods, scenic valleys, and high alpine meadows while immersing yourself in the breathtaking scenery. You can rent your horse for the day or take a guided tour in Vusanje or Valbona.
Valbona to Theth Hiking Trail
A highlight of any trip is hiking over the picturesque mountain passes, which link various valleys across the Accursed Mountains. The Valbona Pass is probably the most popular one and makes up a section of the Peaks of the Balkans Trails. Hiking from Valbona to Theth or the other way around is a must-do that everyone should try.
Marvel at the Pretty Grunas Waterfall
It’s hard to explain the bewildering beauty of waterfalls but there is no denying their effect. At the Grunas Waterfall in Theth, the water drops 25 meters in a near-perfect yet powerful stream into a pond below. Access to the waterfall is only by a 45-minute wilderness hike through the mountains from Theth.
Peaks of the Balkans Trail
The Peaks of the Balkans is a 192-kilometer-long transnational hiking trail across the Accursed Mountains, consisting of ten easy-to-moderate day hiking sections. At a leisurely pace, it takes about two weeks to complete the picturesque trail that, among others, traverses silky alpine meadows, untouched traditional villages, and striking mountain passes.
Explore Lake Koman by Ferry
Embarking on a scenic two-hour ferry ride between Koman and Lake Fierza is a pleasant and relaxing way to explore the beauties of Lake Koman and its surroundings. Enjoy the peace of Northern Albania while bobbing in the crystal-clear waters. This is a great family-friendly experience that can be combined with a trip to nearby Skhoder.
Spend Some Time in Theth
It’s only over the past decade that tourists have started coming to Theth – and even then, only in relatively small numbers but hungry for adventure nonetheless. In Theth, you’ll find little pastures fenced off with wooden stakes and dome-shaped haystacks dotted throughout a beautiful alpine valley that is dominated by a small Catholic stone church.
Theth is as remote as it gets in Europe which is a good thing for modern-day detox. Everything moves at a slower pace and communal social bonds make up a huge and vital part of life here. Located at the feet of Mount Arapit and Maja Jezerce, the Albanian Alp’s highest summit, Theth offers a striking alpine panorama from all angles.
Some popular natural landmarks near Theth are the Grunas Waterfall and the Blue Eye of Kapre (Albanian: Syri i Kalter), a natural karst spring boasting gin-clear, emerald-green water and is also fed by a scenic waterfall.
Visit an Ethnological Museum
Learn more about the region and immerse yourself in the local culture with a visit to the Museum of Peja in Kosovo. The museum is housed inside a beautiful 18th-century traditional Ottoman wooden house and boasts a small collection of weapons, musical instruments, household items, and traditional attire.
Try Canyoning and Waterfall Rappelling
An unmissable adventure in the Ropojana Valley in Montenegro, descending into the 500-meter-deep Grlja Canyon and rappelling down its waterfalls is guaranteed to be an exciting addition to hitting the trails. Take an all-day guided excursion with a company like Slobodni Penjaci Cetinje, an alpine club of qualified professionals.
Pedal Through Alpine Majesty
The Accursed Mountains also have endless scenic biking trails, including the 60-kilometer Pec-Kuqishte cycle path or the 18-kilometer Gusinje–Grebaje Valley path, that make for magnificent bicycle adventures. There are several (mountain) biking tours that you can book online, including the Bogicevica tour which takes you through dense forests and straight to Lake Hrid, one of the most beautiful glacial lakes in the area.
Flying Kosovo’s Zip Line
If the 650 meters of zipping over the Rugova Canyon at a speed of 80 km/h doesn’t offer enough of a thrill, walking the length of Kosovo’s most striking suspension bridge, might end up doing the trick. The wobbling Tibetan Bridge towers 60 meters over the canyon while the panoramic vistas compete with the adrenaline-inducing activity itself – it’s an all-around epic adventure and can be combined with the Via Ferrata Marimangat.
Go Heliskiing
Come in spring for the valleys and alpine meadows, and stay through winter for a heliskiing adventure. With more than 1,500 km2 of virgin pistes and powder as deep and light as in the Alps, Albania offers lots of enchanting descents for adrenaline-hungry skiers and snowboarders. You will need to plan and book in advance because the season lasts just 6 weeks from February to March.
Climb a Via Ferrata
Good beginner’s Via Ferratas are the Mat and Ari trails, taking you approximately 2 – 3 hours to complete and offering good views of Rugova Canyon. An excellent but quite difficult (Grade C/K3) Via Ferrata is Shpellat, which takes you through several caves and reaches a vertical height of 300 meters. There’s also Marimangat which is more challenging and longer and is geared towards experienced climbers.
Go Tandem Paragliding
One of the best locations to go tandem paragliding in the Accursed Mountains is Pec (Albanian: Peja) in Kosovo. You’ll start on top of Mount Kulla on the Montenegrin border and make your way down to Radac. Alternatively, start from the take-off points on Mount Kofiljaca and Mount Visitor in Montenegro close to Lake Plav.
Visit Visoki Decani Monastery
Step back in time with a visit to the 14th-century Decani Monastery. Surrounded by dense forests and sitting on the outer ends of the Bjeshket e Nemuna National Park close to Peja, Kosovo, this stunning monastery was built by the former Serbian King Stefan Uros IV (also known as Dusan Silni) and is under UNESCO protection as one of the most important Serbian religious edifices.
Hike to Lake Licenat
Lake Licenat (Albanian: Liqeni Kuqishtes) is a beautiful glacial lake in the Licenat Group straddling the border between Kosovo and Montenegro. Set in a gorgeous natural amphitheater and surrounded by lush forest and rock, Lake Licenat bewitches with its emerald-green water and is set against a picture-perfect mountain backdrop.
This lake sits at an altitude of almost two kilometers and is only accessible by foot. Starting at the trailhead in Kuqishte, it only takes one hour to reach it. Considering its proximity to Pec and that it makes up part of a section of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, it is surprisingly not crowded. Another small glacial lake finds itself nearby and trips to this lake are often combined with hikes up Mount Licenat (2,341 m) or Zuti Kamen (2,522 m).
Accommodation in the Accursed Mountains
The Accursed Mountains are home to some great guesthouses and eco-lodges. These offer simple yet comfortable accommodations and are a great way to get an authentic insight into rural Balkan mountain life. You’ll be able to experience the culture of the valleys and katuns first-hand and indulge in local homemade specialties prepared by your hosts.
Traditionally, highland residents spend the winter months in the valleys. Once the snow melts in May, families would move with their livestock up the mountains to let them graze on high alpine pastures amid katun mountain huts made of wood and stone. These traditional builds native to the Balkans, provide a safe place to rest for hikers and climbers.
Many have been transformed into small farm stays and lodges where families grow their own vegetable gardens and often keep cows, sheep, and horses. They produce their own dairy and meat products and since there are no bakeries up there, bread is made fresh every day as well. Unlike in the European Alps where mountain huts are larger and often resemble inns in the mountains, the ones found in the Accurses Mountains are humbler but not less cozy.
Most of the Prokletije’s uplands and lowland sections are suitable for hut-to-hut hiking but if you plan to traverse longer distances, it is also possible to set up a tent halfway. Camping is allowed in the Prokletije National Park for a small nightly fee and in Albania it is widely tolerated and some households let you pitch your tent on their meadows in exchange for a small fee.